a walk in the woods

A Walk in the Woods - the book, the movie...

I am a big fan of this book, the true story of author Bill Bryson's adventure on the Appalachian Trail. I have read it a couple of times, listened to the audio version, one of the re-reads came after hearing the news that Robert Redford had bought the movie rights ten years ago. In anticipation of the upcoming movie in 2005, I re-read the book (as I usually do before a book makes its movie debut), envisioning a young Sundance, I mean Robert Redford as Bill, and as Katz I could see the overweight and funny John Candy (who was already gone by then). Actually Redford envisioned doing the movie with his pal Paul Newman, But the movie version never happened. Until now.

I must say I was skeptical that Redford would pull this off, the story of Bryson's hiking the AT in his mid 40s, when Redford is now 79. And Nick Nolte? Seriously?

But I was pleasantly surprised, it actually worked! The theatre was filled with geezers, sorry, folks of a certain age who remember Robert Redford, and the laughter was often and genuine.

I never really thought about where they would do the filming, figuring it would be in a soundstage somewhere, but was again surprised and excited to see our own southern Appalachian mountains right there on the big screen. The Amicalola Lodge, a mere 7 miles away from our house (as the crow flies). The symbolic arch at the beginning of the grueling 8.5 miles approach trail. Crossing Neels Gap and the shoe tree. The long walk across Fontana Dam (the tallest dam in the eastern US) and into the Smoky Mountains.

I have read many books by through-hikers, the predominant theme being rain, wet feet, heavy packs, rain, hunger, blisters. But this story was about getting out and enjoying life, away from the everyday, being awe-inspired by the great vistas, tall trees, and clear streams. And about companionship.

This movie version of A Walk in the Woods is very condensed as compared to the book, which often happens with movies, but it is a good representation of the essence of the story. Thanks, Mr. Redford for getting this story to the big screen, now time to read this book one more time, for the rest of the story.

Grandma Gatewood's Walk: book review

It was 1973, sitting on the front porch of this old farmhouse, visiting our nearest neighbor a mile down the road, Mrs. Lola Mealer. I loved listening to her stories, my favorite was about the time Granny Gatewood walked down the road and set a spell, taking a break from her walk on the Appalachian Trail. Mrs. Mealer told us all about the little grandmother setting out to hike the trail, she described her tennis shoes and knapsack. I was delighted to read about my neighbor in the very first chapter of this book, Grandma Gatewood's Walk by Ben Montgomery.

She caught a ride to Charleston, West Virginia, then boarded a bus to the airport, then a plane to Atlanta, then a bus from there to a little picture-postcard spot called Jasper, Georgia, “the First Mountain Town.” Now here she was in Dixieland, five hundred miles from her Ohio home, listening to the rattle and ping in the back of a taxicab, finally making her ascent up the mountain called Oglethorpe, her ears popping, the cabbie grumbling about how he wasn’t going to make a penny driving her all this way. She sat quiet, still, watching through the window as miles of Georgia blurred past. 

They hit a steep incline, a narrow gravel road, and made it within a quarter mile of the top of the mountain before the driver killed the engine.

She collected her supplies and handed him five dollars, then one extra for his trouble. That cheered him up. And then he was gone, taillights and dust, and Emma Gatewood stood alone, an old woman on a mountain.

She pulled from the box a drawstring sack she’d made back home from a yard of denim, her wrinkled fingers doing the stitching, and opened it wide. She filled the sack with other items from the box: Vienna Sausage, raisins, peanuts, bouillon cubes, powdered milk. She tucked inside a tin of Band-Aids, a bottle of iodine, some bobby pins, and a jar of Vicks salve. She packed the slippers and a gingham dress that she could shake out if she ever needed to look nice. She stuffed in a warm coat, a shower curtain to keep the rain off, some drinking water, a Swiss Army knife, a flashlight, candy mints, and her pen and a little Royal Vernon Line memo book that she had bought for twenty-five cents at Murphy’s back home.

 She stood, finally, her canvas Keds tied tight, on May 3, 1955, atop the southern terminus of the Appalachian Trail, the longest continuous footpath in the world.

Grandma Gatewood's Walk by Ben Montgomery tells Grandma Gatewood's story, 40 years after her death and almost 60 years after her first AT through-hike in 1955. Research included her diaries and trail journals, newspaper clippings, interviews with family and friends and folks met along the way.

Learning of the trail by reading an article in National Geographic, Emma Gatewood couldn't stop thinking about it. She took to heart the part about only a handful of people having hiked the entire trail from one end to the other - all men - and she vowed to be the first woman.

She loved to walk and loved the woods, so one day she just left. She didn't tell anyone, not her children or grandchildren. She said they were all grown and gone, that she would send them a postcard.

The AT's southernmost point was not always on Springer Mountain like it is today. From the early 1930s until 1958 it began on Mount Oglethorpe, which is just 5 miles up the road from my house.

When Emma Gatewood got out of that taxicab on the top of Mount Oglethorpe, she read the inscription on the monument there and proceeded down the trail/road. The trail took a sharp turn but she missed the marker and stayed on the gravel road until she came to the farmhouse of Mr. and Mrs. Mealer who were nice enough to let her stay the night. This was her very first of many encounters of nice folks along the way, and some not so nice. That morning she started out on the walk of a lifetime. With her trademark Keds sneakers and denim knapsack she went where no woman had gone before, making history along the way.

Before her stood mountains, more than three hundred of them topping five thousand feet… and finally - five million steps away - Katahdin.

Another book about real people doing extraordinary things, right here in Georgia, right here on our road! Reminds me of An Appalachian Childhood by Deany Brady, good reading!

not just another AT journey

Walking on the Happy Side of Misery by J. R. "Model-T" Tate

Yes, I am hiking the entire Appalachian Trail once again... virtually that is, reading another chronicle of a thru-hiker on the AT… just call me an armchair hiker living vicariously.

It is a good time of year to read about hiking the AT, it is in early spring every year that thousands of hikers start out on the trail, hoping to go all the way, to get their name on that elusive list of through-hikers, the ones that hike the entire 2100+ miles from GA to Maine.

The recommendation for this book came with a grin, "Model-T writes a little differently." The first clue I had of this is when the author, J.R., former Marine, introduces his alter-ego, Model-T. The two have conversations with each other, which is probably good for the loneliness to be expected when walking alone in the woods for 6 months. But the writing is also colorful and eloquent - I tried to describe it to Buddy - it is like he had the thesaurus out and used it often, but in a good way. For example:

"Like lemmings rushing to the sea, thru-hikers scurry northward, following a tortuous, winding footpath for months, as if pulled along by an invisible, unfathomable force. They seem willing to endure immense hardship and pain to fulfill the near maniacal passion that drives them toward Katahdin. …Spirit-sapping wetness becomes the norm; stinking, sweaty, tattered clothing and body odor that brings to mind the smell of rotting swamp muck are accepted as commonplace. With numb fingers and pinched faces, the early birds chance the howling, arctic-like winds and drifting snows of the southern Appalachians, while the slowpokes dare Katahdin's icy wrath by trying winter's patience."

I have read many books by AT through hikers. There is a common thread in all of the journals/stories - hunger, thirst, exhaustion, feet, rain, vitamin-I (ibuprofen), food, blisters, b.o., hunger, the people met along the way, new friends, did I say hunger?

"This was but a fleeting convergence of lives, a brief melding of minds; yet, the bond of friendship firmly bridged the chasm of unfamiliarity." 

And of course I love this one:

"I threw him a friendly wave, which he didn’t return, but I didn’t really expect him to since we were in Yankee-land (people up here didn’t seem to go in for that sort of thing)." 

Each story has something different to add to the overall picture of the AT experience. Like the folks in Moreland Gap, mad about eminent domain taking over their land for the trail, strung invisible fishing line across the trail at eye level - with fish hooks attached! And the monks at Graymoor Monastery who take in hikers to stay overnight and an all-you-can eat meal. And the porcupines who apparently love salt, who will eat your sweaty boots left on the shelter floor.

"Here, tranquility lay like a soft shroud, soothing the mind and soul, easing pain and cares and restoring the human spirit like a lustral balm." 

Another thing that is common, these hearty folks don't just hike the trail one time and then check it off their Bucket List, they go back again and again. Like Model T who has hiked it 4 times now - misery loves company? Or more likely Walking on the Happy Side of Misery. Why do they do it? I have discovered many things about hiking the AT but I have yet to glean this from these trail stories I have read.

"the heavens seemed to press so close that the juncture between space and earth withered into a dark, dew-shrouded quilt" 

J.R./Model T has written a beautiful story, I felt like I was there on his journey, I felt the heat and rain and cringed with him when thinking about snakes. I could taste the cold sweet ice cream in a friendly trail town. I got misty-eyed when we reached the top of Katahdin and saw that familiar weather-beaten sign marking the end of our journey.

"The words of Thoreau, written after his failed attempt in 1846 to scale Katahdin, floated on the breeze like a poignant whisper: 'Only daring and insolent men, perchance, go there . . . ' " 

I love to read about the places I know and have been - starting out at Amicalola Falls and hiking up to Springer Mountain, encountering the Rangers on maneuvers in the woods, descending Blood Mountain and stopping at the hiking oasis that is the Walasi-Yi store where hikers can get mail and food and even a pack inspection and advice on what to leave behind.  So get on your hiking boots and travel along with Model-T! Happy hiking, y'all!

here's your sign

Another milestone for local Hiker Collin who started out from here in Georgia atop Springer Mountain (pictured left) on March 16th - 161 days and 1877.8 miles ago.

According to the sign, just 281.4 miles to go to reach her goal to summit Mt. Katahdin and complete the Appalachian Trail this season!

Wish I could say it is all downhill now, but not the case here. All of us armchair hikers are rooting for her!

half way there

Congrats to local girl Collin who is hiking the AT - yesterday she made the "psychological" 1/2 way point at Harper's Ferry, West Virginia, the above picture at the ATC visitor's center, a tradition for the official through-hiker photo album.

Follow Collin's adventures on her blog, keep up with the tales of Marge and Lefty (her feet and sometimes her biggest problems) , Big Agnes (her sleeping pad with the perpetual hole), the endless quest for food, and all the critters (2 legged and 4 legged) she meets along the way.

Collin is such an inspiration. I have never accomplished anything remotely like this {sigh}. Wait, I take that back, I am actually very good at doing things halfway...

virtual hiker

I am enjoying following the footsteps of local hiker Collin aka Rabid Hiker on her AT thru-hike:

The Wanderings of an Avid Hiker - My journey on the Appalachian Trail

Collin tells a great story of her daily adventures, having already traveled through Georgia and into North Carolina. She tells of the trail angels doing trail magic along the way, daily trail life, minor injuries and detours, the sights and sounds and smells on the trail.

Collin owned the local hiking and backpacking store and I met her last summer when she was offering local hikes every Saturday morning. All of us wannabe hikers would gather at the store and she would send us off on the hike of the day, with a wistful look in her eyes and always calling after us, "wish I could go with you, but I have to watch the store…" Collin sold the store in the winter and decided it was as good a time as any to try and fulfill her dream of hiking the entire trail.

Her blog story began with preparation and a list of everything in her pack. She packed, unpacked, and repacked, trying to eliminate every ounce of unnecessary weight. Then with the trip up Springer Mountain on March 16th, the momentous first day of her adventure began.

It is fun to travel along with Collin, living vicariously. But this virtual hiking has its pros and cons - I get to sleep in my bed every night and have running water and a bathroom, but I don't seem to be losing any weight or getting in shape at all... bummer.


Everywhere is walking distance if you have the time. ~Steven Wright

Walking is good for solving problems - it's like the feet are little psychiatrists. ~Terri Guillemets

My grandmother started walking five miles a day when she was sixty. She's ninety-three today and we don't know where the hell she is. ~Ellen DeGeneres

hiking home

In the news - Local teen hikes entire Appalachian Trail. Joseph Gudger, age 17, Eagle Scout, 22 pound pack, 4-1/2 months, 2178 miles.

Joseph Gudger went to night school to graduate early and hit the trail. He decided to begin in Maine and walk south. "Coming home sounded cool," he said, "a little more motivating than walking away."

Kudos to his parents and the local scouting program for molding this young man into someone who can accomplish such a feat. This experience will be with him always, and when something in life presents a challenge, he can look back and remember what a real challenge is and how he survived the AT!

Before reading about Joseph in our local paper over the weekend, I had already heard about his trip from granddaughter Sarah, who says she wants to hike the trail someday also. For so many of us who live day to day, or set goals like 'how far can I go in the latest video game,' Joseph is an inspiration to a lot of people, fellow students and adults alike.

Congratulations to Joseph, I know your parents and friends and the entire community are proud of you!

Click above picture to read article, or go to Times Courier - story begins at the bottom of this page, click 'next page' for the conclusion.

gearing up

It is that time of year again, hundreds of dedicated souls are gathering supplies and stuffing their backpacks for the 2100+ mile trek on the AT. It is fun to read their stories, hear about the latest gear, their enthusiasm is contagious!

According to whiteblaze.net, as of today there are 379 folks registered as 2010 thru-hikers. This registry gives trail name, direction, estimated start date, a thru-hiker being someone who hikes the trail from end-to-end.

Last summer I met Collin, owner of the local hiking store, who is now getting ready to start her thru-hike, she recently posted on Facebook: UL 5oz down jacket finally arrived! I am finally ready for the Appalachian Trail. Look out.

Regina is another lady I met hiking last year, she had hiked the entire AT and the Pacific Coast Trail. Now she is out hiking the BMT.

'A Hike of Their Own' is a recent article in AT Journeys that highlights all the older women out there hiking - "Your mental attitude is as important as your physical and the mental comes with age and experience." One of the many ladies featured in this article is the infamous Grandma Gatewood who completed two thru-hikes of the AT, the first when she was 67 (with her knapsack and wearing Keds).

The traditional AT through-hiker starts at the Southern end and heads north, mainly because of weather conditions. So during the month of March there will be lots of activity nearby, as the beginning of the trail is about 10 miles from our house (as the crow flies). To get there by car or truck or preferably Jeep - through winding gravel forest service roads - is more like 30 miles.

Granddaughter Sarah recently announced that she wants to hike The Trail, date to be determined. She is reading trail stories and gathering information, she is in 10th grade so has lots of time to plan.

Getting in the spirit, I printed out an article from the Sherpa guides on the AT in GA, all the road crossings and trail description, planning on doing some hiking myself, some long day hikes (10 miles?) and possibly an overnight backpacking trip. The trail in GA is 77 miles, maybe I can do that much this year? Something to think about, goals are good.

For now I am keeping close to the fire and living vicariously reading magazine articles and blogs and online trail journals - maybe I will see some of these folks out on the trail!

a perfect day

Saturday was a perfect day - cool weather, sunshine, slight breeze, clear blue sky, a trail to hike, a mountain to climb, breathtaking vistas, a little history, a backpack picnic with a view, a little rock climbing, a drive through the curvy mountain roads, good company, good times.

What is your definition of a perfect day?

When you have worn out your shoes, the strength of the shoe leather has passed into the fiber of your body. I measure your health by the number of shoes and hats and clothes you have worn out. ~Ralph Waldo Emerson

~photos 7 November 2009 hiking on the AT up Blood Mountain

in training

I am one of the local hikers in training, 4 times a week, our walks/hikes get a little longer each week...

GOAL - September 12th dayhike - Appalachian Trail approach from Springer mountain to Amicalola Falls… 8.5 miles!

Come and join us!

what's on your plate?

The ATC is trying to get the initial $25,000 to start production on the new Georgia Appalachian Trail license plates, requesting $25 each from hopefully 1000 interested applicants…

I found out about this from the website of our local hiking store - North Georgia Mountain Outfitters - a great place to shop and extra nice folks there!

With the purchase of a specialty A.T. plate in your state, a portion of the cost of the plate is returned to the ATC for its work to manage and maintain the A.T. The current program in North Carolina has raised over $330,000. ~ATC

Just wondering.....do prisoners not make licence plates any more? Lets see, room, board, food, library, exercise room, is there any work going on?

Hmmm, I wonder if you actually have to hike the Trail to get one? Anyway, I think this would look great on my vehicle, don't you?


~get application here

hiking THE trail

Southern terminus of the AT, Springer Mountain, Georgia

side trail toward shelter and water at Springer Mountain
(see the Indian trail tree pointing the way)

bear-proof food storage,
elaborate pulley system in the woods

Springer Mountain Shelter,
home sweet home for many hikers

Hiked to Springer Mountain today, the beginning or end of the Appalachian Trail, depending on which way you are going. No, I didn't hike the 8.4 mile approach trail from Amicalola Falls, but the 0.9 mile shorter trek from the parking area on Forest Service Road #42. Overcast cool day, good for hiking, up in the clouds today so no views but lots of wildflowers and mountain laurel.



Lots of hikers out today, a holiday 3-day weekend. Some were just hiking the 1.8 miles (like me), some were day hikers, some were going 8 miles or 20 miles or 30 miles over the weekend. Met one young lady who was going all the way to Maine - approximately 2175 miles - today was her first day on the trail, good luck to her!

Hikers are such nice folks, it felt good to be out on THE trail, rubbing elbows with real hikers.

back to nature

I went to a local hiking supply store, North Georgia Mountain Outfitters, and signed up for their Saturday morning hike and discovered the Cartecay River loop trail. Less than 10 miles from my house and had never been there! The river was running full and clear, the mountain laurel was in full bloom along the banks. The 3.5 mile trail was in excellent shape. Lots of wildflowers, red ones, yellow ones, white ones...

Met some nice folks, enjoyed trail stories from Regina about her thru-hikes on the Appalachian Trail and Pacific Coast Trail. A nice local hike on a trail new to me! A great way to spend a Saturday.

~ North Georgia Mountain Outfitters website
~ River loop trail directions and map here

initiation to hiking

My friend Sherry mentioned she had never been on a hike before. Never? Well, that had to be remedied. I was worried about my choice of the almost 5 mile Copper Road Trail, but she showed me up, even carrying my pack most of the way!

We saw a few wildflowers, and despite the warning signs we saw no bears. The trail follows the Ocoee River upstream to the dam which controls water flow for rafting. It was a beautiful sunny day, light breeze, perfect weather for Sherry's initiation into hiking.

So if you have been working on your budget or your taxes, trying to crunch those numbers and need a break, for just $3 to park to the Forest Service you can spend a whole day at one of their great facilities.

The infusion of sunshine and fresh air is great for clearing your head, putting your troubles on the back burner for a while, and changing your perspective on life.

May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds.

~ Edward Abbey (1927-1989) American Writer - Hikers Blessing from Appalachian Trails Blog 1/9/09

time flies

Time is flying by. I am reading the February 2009 issue of Blue Ridge Country magazine, it came in the mail a few days ago and I am already 2 months behind!

Slow down, you move too fast, you've got to make the morning last ~Simon and Garfunkel

There is a story in this issue about the Appalachian Trail, about Karl Meltzer whose goal was to finish the entire 2000+ miles this year. This idea is not new of course, they are called thru-hikers, those ambitious folks who finish the trail all in a calendar year. But Karl's idea was new and different, he wanted to attempt it without a backpack or hiking boots, in fact he wanted to RUN the entire trail.

Runners just do it - they run for the finish line even if someone else has reached it first. ~Author Unknown

Karl is a world class endurance runner and his goal was to finish the trail in 47 days, to beat a former record of course. He tried this from August 5 through September 29, 2008. His goal, mantra, motto: 1 man, 2174 miles, 47 days. He didn't beat the record, but he gave it a good try, running up and down these Appalachian mountains day in and day out.

Pursue some path, however narrow and crooked, in which you can walk with love and reverence. ~Henry David Thoreau

The AT as everyone knows is a continuous marked footpath that goes between Katahdin in Maine and Springer Mountain in Georgia, about 2160 miles. The trail has spectacular scenery, is great for exploring, for adventure, for exercise, for nature study, and for renewal.

This all sounds so peaceful, tranquil even. Back to nature, peace and quiet of the forest, walking, hiking, climbing, exploring parts of the country that can only be reached by foot.

In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks. ~John Muir

It is hard for me to understand why anyone would want to run on the AT, to rush past all that scenery. To me, it really misses the whole point of hiking in general and especially the AT, bringing it down to just another race, another finish line, another extreme challenge.

Jogging is very beneficial. It's good for your legs and your feet. It's also very good for the ground. It makes it feel needed. ~Charles Schulz, Peanuts

But to each his own, I guess. At least he is out there getting some exercise and maybe even seeing some of the countryside, even if it is at a blur.

The only reason I would take up jogging is so that I could hear heavy breathing again. ~Erma Bombeck

I can’t help wondering if I had been jogging instead of blogging these last 3 years how fit I might be now. ~Colleen Redman

Karl Meltzer's AT stories here and here

following the white blazes

Starting out on the Appalachian Trail, which way do you want to go? Just follow the white blazes on the trees, see the one in this picture? Those 2 x 6 inch white paint blazes will take you 2,174 miles. Don't forget to stop and enjoy the wildflowers along the way.

Rocky Road

Jeep riding on Forest Service roads, up to Nimblewill Gap. At the gap is an intersection, turn left toward Frosty Mountain and on to Amicalola Falls, or go straight to Bucktown (not recommended, that road is even worse than this one).



We were searching for an elusive geocache in the thick undergrowth, and luckily the only critter we saw was a butterfly.





The approach to the Appalachian Trail also crosses here, we saw several hikers with backpacks coming out of the woods down the log steps into the clearing. They seemed surprised to see our vehicle - there is a road here? They were probably thinking - You mean I could have driven here instead of walking?

Hikers as a rule are nice friendly folks. Several stopped to visit, and we explained geocaching to them. They wished us luck and then went on their way up the other side of the gap, up Black Mountain toward Springer.

We left there and went on to search for more geocaches and later attend a geocaching event at nearby Amicalola Falls. Since I work at home during the week and don't get out much (except to go to Wal-Mart), I was looking forward to the social event. (More on my geocaching blog).

It was very peaceful at Nimblewill Gap, but probably not for long, as we met 5 more jeeps coming in as we were going out. As usual on a pretty day, everyone has the same idea, a good day to get out and enjoy the woods.

step aerobics

On Wednesday afternoon, we drove over to Amicalola Falls State Park after work (daughter Melissa, granddaughter Racheal, and I). It is close to here, about 8 miles as the crow flies, about 20 minutes around the curvy mountain roads. The falls and lodge can be seen for miles around. The 729-foot falls is the tallest cascading waterfall east of the Mississippi River. Amicalola is a Cherokee Indian word meaning "tumbling waters".


Since I can remember, a trail has been in place from the base of the falls about halfway up, with a viewing platform. But within the past few years, new steps have been constructed going all the way up to the top of the falls, 604 steps in all. This was our goal.

We stopped in the visitor center and checked out the T-shirts "I survived 604 steps," and told the clerk we were going to climb the steps and would be back for our shirts.

We climbed the steps up and down, Racheal did the math and said the shirt should say 1208 steps. But when we got back to the shop, it was closed.

Amicalola Falls park is the southernmost beginning point of the Appalachian Trail. We met some hikers loaded down with backpacks, bedrolls, etc. and asked them about their hike. They were coming back after being gone for 3 days, saying how rough it was, they couldn't find any water, and never did make it to Springer Mountain. (Note: Springer Mountain is the official Southern end of the AT, uphill 8.5 miles on the approach trail from Amicalola Falls)



We accomplished part of our goal, the steps - been there, done that - but no T-shirt to prove it, maybe today we will go back just for shopping.