Walking on the Happy Side of Misery by J. R. "Model-T" Tate
Yes, I am hiking the entire Appalachian Trail once again... virtually that is, reading another chronicle of a thru-hiker on the AT … just call me an armchair hiker living vicariously.
It is a good time of year to read about hiking the AT, it is
in early spring every year that thousands of hikers start out on the trail,
hoping to go all the way, to get their name on that elusive list of through-hikers,
the ones that hike the entire 2100+ miles from GA to Maine .
The recommendation for this book came with a grin,
"Model-T writes a little differently." The first clue I had of this
is when the author, J.R., former Marine, introduces his alter-ego, Model-T. The
two have conversations with each other, which is probably good for the
loneliness to be expected when walking alone in the woods for 6 months. But the
writing is also colorful and eloquent - I tried to describe it to Buddy - it is
like he had the thesaurus out and used it often, but in a good way. For
example:
"Like lemmings rushing
to the sea, thru-hikers scurry northward, following a tortuous, winding
footpath for months, as if pulled along by an invisible, unfathomable force.
They seem willing to endure immense hardship and pain to fulfill the near
maniacal passion that drives them toward Katahdin. …Spirit-sapping wetness
becomes the norm; stinking, sweaty, tattered clothing and body odor that brings
to mind the smell of rotting swamp muck are accepted as commonplace. With numb
fingers and pinched faces, the early birds chance the howling, arctic-like
winds and drifting snows of the southern Appalachians ,
while the slowpokes dare Katahdin's icy wrath by trying winter's patience."
I have read many books by AT through hikers. There is a
common thread in all of the journals/stories - hunger, thirst, exhaustion,
feet, rain, vitamin-I (ibuprofen), food, blisters, b.o., hunger, the people met
along the way, new friends, did I say hunger?
"This was but a
fleeting convergence of lives, a brief melding of minds; yet, the bond of
friendship firmly bridged the chasm of unfamiliarity."
"I threw him a friendly
wave, which he didn’t return, but I didn’t really expect him to since we were
in Yankee-land (people up here didn’t seem to go in for that sort of thing)."
Each story has something different to add to the overall
picture of the AT experience. Like the folks in Moreland Gap, mad about eminent
domain taking over their land for the trail, strung invisible fishing line
across the trail at eye level - with fish hooks attached! And the monks at
Graymoor Monastery who take in hikers to stay overnight and an all-you-can eat
meal. And the porcupines who apparently love salt, who will eat your sweaty
boots left on the shelter floor.
"Here,
tranquility lay like a soft shroud, soothing the mind and soul, easing pain and
cares and restoring the human spirit like a lustral balm."
Another thing that is common, these hearty folks don't just
hike the trail one time and then check it off their Bucket List, they go back
again and again. Like Model T who has hiked it 4 times now - misery loves
company? Or more likely Walking on the Happy Side of Misery. Why do they do it?
I have discovered many things about hiking the AT but I have yet to glean this
from these trail stories I have read.
"the heavens seemed to
press so close that the juncture between space and earth withered into a dark,
dew-shrouded quilt"
J.R./Model T has written a beautiful story, I felt like I
was there on his journey, I felt the heat and rain and cringed with him when
thinking about snakes. I could taste the cold sweet ice cream in a friendly
trail town. I got misty-eyed when we reached the top of Katahdin and saw that
familiar weather-beaten sign marking the end of our journey.
"The words of Thoreau,
written after his failed attempt in 1846 to scale Katahdin, floated on the
breeze like a poignant whisper: 'Only daring and insolent men, perchance, go
there . . . ' "
I love to read about the places I know and have been -
starting out at Amicalola Falls and hiking up to Springer Mountain,
encountering the Rangers on maneuvers in the woods, descending Blood Mountain
and stopping at the hiking oasis that is the Walasi-Yi store where hikers can
get mail and food and even a pack inspection and advice on what to leave
behind. So get on your hiking boots and travel along with Model-T! Happy
hiking, y'all!
